Jet 708110K Swing Arm Sliding Table

Sunday, February 7, 2010

OrderNow Jet 708110K Swing Arm Sliding Table

Jet 708110K Swing Arm Sliding Table







Product Description
Production-grade 5hp Jet 12" Right Tilting Arbor Tablesaw Includes Extension Table And Support Legs

Feature
  • Fits most 10" right or left tilt closed cabinet table saws
  • Features swing arm design
  • Table surface rides on ball bearing and needle bearings keeping the movement smooth
  • Capability to crosscut a 48" wide sheet

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CustomerReviews

Excellent accuracy, straight-forward install and adjust
I've been using this sliding table for 6 years or more and have been very pleased with its smoothness, accuracy, strength, and stability. There is amazingly little play in the entire mechanism.



It's true that it takes some time to get everything bolted together (including drilling a few holes) and carefully adjusted, but nothing is difficult and the instructions are clear and straight-forward. It's worth it for the repeatable 1/32" accuracy across a 48" crosscut.



The fence is very flexible. It can be mounted at the front edge or the back edge (the latter is required for the full 48+" crosscut capacity), and contrary to the one negative review, can be removed and re-installed with excellent accuracy and repeatability as long as you are consistent in the way you take up the slack in the hole for the right-hand T-bolt (e.g., pull the fence back towards you to take up the 1/32" to 1/16" extra space in the hole -- the left end has a calibratable stop for repositioning the fence for the basic 90-degree crosscut).



In all this time, I have found only two downsides, which probably apply to the entire concept of sliding tables and not specifically to this product.



-- The rail protrudes in front of the saw (as it does on all sliding tables I've seen), which is annoyingly in the way a bit during other operations.



-- The fence is in the way of any wide rips and just about any crosscut that doesn't use the sliding table and its fence. It's easy to loosen and slide it completely off the saw's main table plus about a half a foot, but that's all. Beyond that, you have to loosen the two T-bolt clamps and slide the fence off, plus you have to completely remove the right-hand T-bolt and knob.

Very good alternative to a european slider
I have owned and used a 10' sliding table saw for years and gotten very used to it. Now I am retiring and have sold most of my larger equipment and downsizing into a much smaller shop. I have an old General 10" table saw that I bought and installed a Jet Sliding table for. It is really much better than I thought it might be, being very easy to install and highly adjustable. I can square up a full sheet of plywood with it, cut 45 degree angles (or any angle in between 90 and 45), and easily remove the cross fence to use the table saw to rip on. It is very well made and can handle a lot of weight. I put rubber bumpers at the stops for an easier stop each way, but have done no other modifications or see any need to. The castings are well made and flat, the fence is straight and heavy duty with a good stop, and the finish is good.

I highly recommend this for anyone that doesn't have the room for a large European slider and/or doesn't want to spend 7k or more for a good combination machine.

minor design quirks
Better system than the excaliber type system, excellent accuracy with 48" crosscut capacity, table extension for long sheets is a little cheesy, t-nut fence design makes putting the alumium bar back on a little tedious. Unless you are going to use something like an Altendorf or other large panel saw, this is the way to go.

Doesn't fit PM66 , but can with xtra modifications
I have used many styles of sliding tables saws, including the $15,00 types and this this isn't bad for the money.

Prior to purchasing this slide arm, I contated a Jet technition to see if it works on a Powermatic66 and he said yes, but with some modifications. These modifications consisted of drilling new holes in the tube that mounts to the side of the saw that the bearings run on and this wasn't to hard. Next modification was a 1/4" thick steel plate was needed to be bent or welded to create a piece of 6" angle iron because the bottom base of the PM66 saw is too round on the corners. It wound up being a piece of 6"x6"x10" that I welded to the base and then drilled holes in that to mount the pivot part of the arm. I used a local sheet metal/metal shop to make the part and it cost around $45. The plasic dust sheild on the side on the saw for enclosing the base can't be used. And the slide hits the top of the motor when the base is raised all the way up. But only about the last 1/4" or so, the rest of the blade height is not a problem when using the sliding arm/table. Basically, the assembly took less than a day to setup



Jet should consider using bearings in the pivot arm to help reduce wear on the lower arm/table support. They should also try to figure a way to eliminate the tube that sticks out in front of the saw because it gets in the way(most sliding tables have this problem)



The saw was shipped with a slightly bowed fence rail and the new one was shipped to me within 1-2 weeks(not a problem). I have seen this type of problem on aluminum extrusions before. No problems on getting parts except that you have to go through Tool Crib(not amazon) for parts, not Jet directly. It took about a day to figure this out. I told them what I needed and the parts were sent no questions asked



Nice for the money
I found the assembly to be relatively straight forward except for the mounting holes for the guide tube. I have a unisaw and the holes were off by a quarter inch so I had to redrill them. If the Jet guys ever read these things maybe they can forward this on to R&D. Maybe slotted holes would cover it. Alignment was a bear as previously noted but with so many adjustments I could just plod along until I had it dialed in. Action is smooth and consistant throughout the stroke, but they could have made the guide bar at least 5 inches longer so the sheetstock can fully clear the blade. I would also change the swing so that the pivot acts from the rear. As it is now the arm is almost a shin wacker, only a problem if you are trying to see a cut line from the blade side, but still a pain. All in all, though, I am quite happy with it.




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